CHARM OF ZIRO

Though I am associated with the North East for over twenty three years, I had the fortune of seeing only Assam & Meghalaya, apart from Sikkim. A communication regarding a meeting in Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, therefore, delighted me. I lost no time in booking an air-ticket for Itanagar via Guwahati. The Bagdogra-Guwahati flight was a short affair. To my utter relief on landing, I learnt that the 24-seater Pawan Hans helicopter from Itanagar had arrived moments before our touchdown. Naturally, it was to take at least an hour to be airborne again.
2. All along I was lost in thoughts about Arunachal Pradesh, the largest State of North East having an area of more than 80,000 square kms. One was eagerly looking forward to see its vast water resources, thick and pristine forest and above all, its friendly people belonging to 25 different tribes. The heli-flight to Itanagar covered a ground distance of over 350 kms in sixty five minutes. One could see vast areas outside Guwahati and Nowgong inundated by the floods of the Brahamputra. The river appeared mightier than before from top, reminding us of the several legends attached to it in the folklore of the North East.
3 .My desire to have more aerial view of Assam Valley and approach to Arunachal Pradesh had not even come to an end that I realized that helicopter was hovering close to the foothills around Itanagar. They were soothing and undisturbed by the fury of mankind and had a lush green cover. A few mountainous rivers and rivulets were seen meandering their ways into the plains of Assam. Finally we reached Neharlagun heliport around 16.05 hours. Against the preconceived notion of darkness in the region at this time of the day, visibility was clear. A friendly welcome awaited us at the heliport. The formalities at the terminal building took longer than expected. As a result, it was almost dark by the time we reached Hotel Donyl Polo Ashok.
4. Our entry into quiet and clean capital of Arunachal was greeted with light drizzle. Upon a quick shower and tea we were off for a meeting at the Secretariat. Tall Buildings were nowhere to be seen. Rather, age-old eco-friendly Ekra barracks housed different departments and offices of Ministers. By the time, we finished our engagement; it was pitch dark, though rain has stopped. We looked for some typical Arunachal handicraft items but soon got disappointed. The capital city, spread on two hills facing each other, appeared pleasant to the eyes. Some of us were drawn to the charm of a monastery, about a km away from our hotel. Though it was closed for the evening, our request to its Head Lama ensured opening its doors. The monastery built with the assistance of some experts of neighboring Bhutan a few years ago had Lord Buddha as its presiding deity. Guru Padmasambhava and a high ranking Goddess gave him company. The paintings over the wall were very colourful and attractive. Outside, a Chorten sparkled even in dim light. We took the customary rounds of the monastery and the Chorten before returning to hotel.
5. Whole of the next day was spent in attending to official engagements. It would rain off and on but there would be no change in the damp and sultry atmosphere. Little bit of walk here and there would only increase our sweat level. We retired to bed, therefore, rather early.
6. The third day was very adventurous and memorable. After an early morning walk and exercise, followed by a light breakfast, we began our journey to Ziro, the headquarters of Lower Subansiri District. The distance of a hundred and eighty kilometers was going to take more than five hours due to a Bandh call given in the neighboring Assam. By the time we left, neat and clean surroundings of Itanagar were waking up on a welcome sunny day. We did not find any encroachment or unauthorized construction which would disturb the pristine beauty of the thickly forested hills. Streams and rivulets appeared all along till we reached Doimukh town, upon crossing a distance of twenty two kms. We took a left turn to cross a wide, yet neat and clean Dikrong river.
6. From the tiny township of Doimukh to Power house of Ranganadi Project (a distance of twenty kms.), the road was in bad shape. Presence of a lot many potholes made the journey slow and tedious but the passage through green forest area had its own advantages. After forty five minutes or so, we took a tea break at Harahapa Village. It was nice to relax in this flat area. The Ranganadi river was flowing close by, in full force. Later, we came across a beautiful waterfall right on the roadside. Hardly any vehicle was seen plying through this thick rainforest. It looked rich in biodiversity. Though the area was having abundance of banana plants, rarely one could see a plant bearing fruit. The place reportedly also had a variety of fauna. Same was evident by occasional appearance of beautiful birds.
7. Before noon, we came across a relatively flat area ahead of Riajori. Within no time, the beautiful Ranganandi appeared very close to the road. Next to a dam, a cluster of Ekra houses were seen along the road. A well prepared breakfast awaited us at PWD Rest House, situated ahead of Yazali township Apart from the government servants, we were greeted very warmly by the area Gram Panchayat, Anchal Samiti and District Panchayat members. Thick forest all around, kept us in a captivating mood.
8. Upon having breakfast we stopped near the river bank to see anti-erosion works. We listened patiently to a few villagers who desired erection of protective walls to check frequently changing course of river. We could also see many plots of land having traces of “Jhum “cultivation. As we were behind schedule, we had no option but to bid good bye to the villagers and Punchayat Members after acknowledging their help and hospitality.
9. Upon an ascent of about three kms, we were bestowed with an opportunity to have the marvelous view of the flat and green area of Yazali. Capturing the view into camera was the logical course of action. Another drive of half an hour took us to Zoram village. It too had a long stretch of even land and beautiful cluster of ethnic houses. I was informed that this particular area was once proposed for the new capital of Arunachal Pradesh.
10. In the course of further journey of about twenty five kilometers, we came across a variety of Pine trees. Ultimately, we were in a position to touch the highest point at 5754.feet near Zoram town. Subsequent to a down hill drive of six kilometers, we reached our destination-Ziro. The first view was simply amazing. It was an unforgettable sight to see a large flat area having attractive houses, farm land and a thick canopy of green trees. One was reminded vividly of the black & white snaps of Potin Mama and Kamakhya Mami taken in these surroundings, forty six years ago during the former's posting with SIB in the erstwhile region of NEFA. 'Mami', we were told as curious and obedient kids, 'was rechristened as NEFA Didi or Mami' due to the fact that she joined Mama over here immediately after their marriage and this being her honeymoon place, she appeared to have developed immense fascination and attachment. The shooting spree, naturally, by my camera went on for almost ten minutes. It stopped only when we were informed of a get-together at the Hotel Blue Pine, overlooking the District Headquarters.
11. The breathtaking Ziro is situated on the Apatani plateau. Amidst high mountain ranges, it is unbelievable to come across such a flat area of fifteen to twenty square kilometers. The lush green paddy fields are surrounded by the hills of medium height having thick forest cover. A soothing drive of three kilometers brings us to the center of a market area. A laid back and relaxed small town atmosphere greets us. No one is in a hurry here. I make an unsucessful attempt to locate Potin Mama's dwelling place of 1963. Mostly, however, one finds people of Apatani tribe. Both men and women have tattoos on their faces. Older women appear totally different due to their nose plugs (Dat), made of bamboo. Since it is no longer practiced, younger women can be differentiated from their old women relatives. An old lady and her grand daughter, a student of Class Xth, reluctantly provide us a photo opportunity for the sake of memory.
12. Soon we see a minor irrigation scheme. Remarkably executed, it has been instrumental in controlling floods, apart from increasing the yield of paddy. Next, we are amazed to see the indigenous irrigation system of the Apatanis which ensures fish farming together with paddy growing. An energetic farmer shows us a bamboo net fixed at an outlet between two plots of land. It checks the flow of fish from one plot to another. As a system like this exists nowhere, it turned out to be a great learning experience.
13. We also get a chance to visit a few traditional and modified bamboo houses. Finding no verandah, one barges into the central portion having a combined kitchen and living room. The utensils, tools and clothes are found neatly arranged. Like any other hill tribe, life looked easy and free from worries for the Apatinis. They appear friendly, when approached for an interaction. Some of them were having hard drinks at a time when it was bright and sunny. We settle for a cup of tea even when offered hard drinks. Language is no barrier as most of them are in a position to converse in Hindi, one of their link languages apart from the Assamese.
14. As time was running out, we hit the road again. While driving back to the main town, it is nice to see a few energetic teenagers fully engrossed in a game of football. But the game was not being played on a normal field, It was an unfunctional air-strip which was used as a playing arena. Since sun set was approaching fast, we rush to the Hotel Blue Pine to have a refreshing cup of tea. When the time comes to convey our gratitude to the officers for having taken us around so well, they, in turn offer a nice locally woven shawl and a miniature dagger, found tied on the waist of an Apatani male. We are simply floored by their hospitability and caring nature.
15. While returning to Itanagar, we see more vehicles on the road. As it was becoming dark, we gradually lose interest in the greenery, beauty and the overall charm of the area. Although well-lit, the town of Yazali now gives a deserted look. We make a futile attempt to look for the Punchayat Members. As a result, we postpone our decision to have a break at Yazali. The Ranganadi looks more ferocious in darkness. After a drive of thirty odd kilometers, we reach an urban settlement overlooking a dam over Ranganadi. We have a satisfying cup of tea with cookies while enjoying the beauty of dam. Upon crossing this stretch, we begin driving on the main road passing through Assam, as the news of strike being called off is received. Further drive of nearly seventy kilometers is through a dense forest. It is a very lonely stretch. For miles altogether, there is no trace of any habitation. To our fortune, no wild life is sighted. The tape-recorder of the vehicle gives us the needed company. We feel mesmerized by the unique singing skills of a few Pakistanis who have made it to Hindi films in the recent past. It is around 21.30 hours when we reach a market area, thirty kilometers short of Itanagar. The effect of strike is still there, as we face difficulty in getting dinner. It is well past 22.45 hours when we make it to our hotel in Itanagar.
16. Though it was a long and hectic day, it was going to be a memorable one. Of all the things, the unique combined farming practice of fish and paddy of the Apatanis is going to be in my memory for a long time. Enjoying life in a slow motion, sometimes, also has its own advantages. I was simply impressed with the tranquil surroundings of the Ziro valley. It had the power to satisfy my senses as also my soul

MY ROMANCE WITH RAILWAYS

It came out of blue. My trusted friend, Col. Narendra Kumar, got me an Invite for the Girimitra Sammelan, organised by the Maharastra Sewa Sangh (MSS) at Mulund, Mumbai. As time was extraordinarily short, with the divine assistance of Vagish, I visited the website of the Indian Railways and a few budget airlines. There was no ray of hope as regards the railways. The smiling and reliable Sanjay, a senior officer of the Northern Railway offered to help, nevertheless.In between I tried to speak to the office bearers of MSS,but of no avail.Ultimately,a contact was established with Malini,the dashing horserider friend of yesteryears,who promised to speak to someone for board & lodging as she herself was temporarily moving out of the commercial hub of the country. I made optimum use of limited time at my disposal by fondly remembering the lessons drawn from ‘Packing’, the immensely hilarious prose piece prescribed during my Intermediate days.
2. Per kind courtesy of the HQ Quota of the Railways, I finally landed at 21.25 hours at the Platform No. 9 of the renovated New Delhi Railway Station.The new found dazzle, however,could not prevent a few villagers as also the foreigners from being harrased unnecessarily by the touts of all sizes,clout and dimensions. To my utter relief, on an otherwise sultry evening, the reck of 2472 Swaraj Express arrived late by just ten minutes from Jammu Tawi. Before I venture to enter the partially occupied AC compartment, I telephonically request my family to pass on my berth and bogie numbers ( 17, B3/AS3) to Arjun Wadkar, the Protocol Officer of Pandoo, my ever helpful batchmate. Passing of the telephonic message at this late hour was to enable me to avail of the gracious offer of transport and accomodation at Mumbai.
3..As it always happens, my portion of the bogie seemed fully occupied. When AC was actually effective and the train began moving, I was relieved to see the noticeable reduction in the number of my temporary ‘secondary group’ members. Unlike any other non-AC bogie, we would only stare at each other. rather than ‘open our heart’ at the first available opportunity. Finally when my watch showed 23.00 hours, well past Faridabad in Haryana, the hunger within led to breaking of ice. While chewing and gulping home made dinner, the conversation between six of us, occupying berth numbers 17- 22, was merely confined to knowing the places of respective destinations, apart from a passing reference to the spicey topics of nuclear deal and sky rocketting prices.
4.Most of the blankets and sheets provided looked attractive and new.But the pillows were not worth their name. Soon, after we opened and adjusted our berths to stretch our body, a sort of curiosity developed over the fact that the oldest among us, by the name of Gabbar Singh (GB),aged 58 and already a grandfather, was venturing not to sleep. A dusky beauty(DB), sporting a sleeveless brown coloured printed Kurta and a matching Churidar, on the contrary, was sleeping to glory over the side lower berth. G.B.,true to his style, preferred waiting in a standing posture to meet a friend at Mathura Station, the next halt. We wished him all the best and bid him good night around 11.30 hours. Later, the next day, before he got down at Borivali Station, he divulged to our utter surprise that he had managed to neatly gulp half a bottle of whisky before the train reached Mathura and that his ‘elusive friend’ was merely a shrewd figment of his furtile imagination.He also added that one of the passengers gave him much needed company at the dead of the night when we were supposedly wandering romantically into the fairy lands,an event made immortal by one and only Raj Kapoor in his path breaking magnum opus-Awara.
5. I suddenly woke up around 01.00 hours upon experiencing severe cold conditions in the midst of an otherwise hot and humid summer. Noticing no movement in my ‘neighbourhood’(fast asleep DB included),I gathered that the train was having an unscheduled halt for want of a signal clearance. This gave me an opportunity to go outside the AC area to get some warmth. On my request, the Caretaker agreed to raise the temperature to ensure us an undisturbed sleep prior to dawn. I also decided to use the so-called hi-tech toilet, introduced recently. It no doubt looked cleaner and more presentable than before with an additional latch, mirror and improved lights. It did not,however, have any flush system, the most essential item.My effort to press a wrong knob boomeranged,as I was bestowed with the rare privilege of having an unwanted midnight bath.Having failed to dry up my clothes,I,was, left with no alternative but to get an audience with the smartly dressed TTE at the earliest opportunity.I was optimistic even in this dark hour in view of my pleasant encounter with him within an hour of leaving New Delhi.
6.Around 07.50 hours,the train came to a screeching halt.DB was still giving an impression as if she had’nt slept for years.Her younger male escort ,however,would occasionally open his chinky eyes to do a ‘reckie’.Upon looking outside,I discovered that we had made an entry into M.P., the third State since leaving New Delhi.The two stations of Rajasthan,namely,Kota and Sawai Madhopur one had missed, as they were crossed during the unearthly hours.A hefty turbaned hawker doing brisk business while selling the famous Namkeens of Ratlam informs that the train was behind schedule by twenty minutes.He did add that the superfast was to make-up,nevertheless, in view of its good track record.While performing the daily ritual of brisk walk on the neat and clean platform,I was privileged to see the impact of Maratha culture in Ratlam,especially when I decided to break the fast with tasty Pohey and mouth-watering Dhokla,both purchased for just Rs Fifteen from an upmarket stall of the IRCTC.Though I was full in no time, I could not possibly divert my attention from staring at the appetising Pakoras being sold with Pudina ki Chutney in the far flung corner of platform.
7.The behaviour of those selling Namkeens and sweatmeats was in sharp contrast to their counterparts in the North or the East.In the same way, a certain degree of discipline and cleanliness was visible among the new passengers getting into the bogies and the ‘outsourced’ young boys who were doing a quick and fine job of wiping the window panes of compartments together with much needed cleaning of the toilets. Latter led me to bump into the new less smart TTE. He not only gave me a patient hearing,but duly sympathised with my cause.Nevertheless, to twist the discussion, he spoke of other justifiable additions , viz, improved thickness of berths,provision of mirrors in every cubicle,charging facility for cell phones,cloth hangers,bigger nets for every berth for keeping the small ,yet, essential items, water bottle holders, bright signages and last but not the least, the commitment shown by the Indian Railways through various boards espousing the cause of women and promising to work for their empowerment. Having noted these myself, I could not beg to disagree, while duly taking note of much more discernible snoring skills of DB and her companion. By now, it was established that they happened to be siblings.They appeared fully contented beings, probably inching towards the much aspired for stage of self actualisation.Or was it triggered by what they say in Hindi ‘sleeping without any worry,whatsoever, subsequent to selling the horses’?.
8. While the train leaves Ratlam at 8.10 hours, I am in a position to witness other portions of station, disciplined children suitably guided by Nuns, Muslim women in attractive burquas and a neat and clean cafetaria run by IRCTC. The whole scenario looks pleasant. DB in the meanwhile, looks for her companion all over the compartment. A sigh of relief is noted on her face, when he is found entering from the adjucent bogie. He was held up while fetching water at the last moment, a phenomenon not unusual in the Indian train journeys.
9. At Bomania station the train picks up speed. It is a pleasing sight to see clean and quiet countryside in the background of grazing goats and women and children working in fields. Soon we pass through a plateau area, having ample grass land and forest cover. While I do not mind hearing the voice of a hawker selling break fast for Rs. 20/-, my attention definitely gets diverted on hearing a loud conversation between two youngsters proceeding to Mumbai for an interview at ‘Vimal’. They also talk about relief coming to innocent citizens after the enactment of RTI and possible variations of mood of the members of interview board,they were destined to face. While all this is in progress, the train enters a tunnel of half a k.m. length. After experiencing a bout of darkness, it is nice to see a small hydel project. The surrounding terrain reminds one of the sand dunes of Jaisalmer area of Rajasthan. I notice a few huts, goats, a pair of bullock and hardy,turbaned menfolk working in cotton fields. Between the Bajranggarh and Meghnagar stations, the train picks up further momentum. Meghnagar, reported to be on the border of M.P. & Gujarat appears to be a newly built station. A mixture of M.P., Gujarat and Maharastra culture is noticeable when one looks at the dressing pattern of people seated on the platform.
10. When the train is on move again, D.B. decides to give up her sleep and grab a packet of break fast after a wash. Her face brigtens up upon receiving a call on cell. She reminds her brother in a feeble voice to refrain from reading a novel to concentrate on break fast. Withn no time, she helps herself with a cup of ‘Dip’ tea. On noticing praise for the quality of tea, some of us too decide to try our luck. The conversation of the neighbouring young men is heard again. Now they are heard talking about the state of affairs in Mayawati ruled U.P. and the corresponding situation in Maharastra. A man wearing tight jeans passes by.He is talking loudly to his wife on mobile phone, without showing any consideration to the fellow passengers.
11. By this time it becomes clear that it is going to be a cloudy day. The sand dune type of landscape emerges once again, before the train passes through Bordoi station. It is nice to see Bougainvillea flowers blooming in this dry region. A few Eucalyptus trees and abandoned huts are also visible. At this juncture(9.50 hrs), we reach Dahod, the first station of Gujarat.A five minute halt enables us some glimpses of Gujarati culture, aptly reflected through the dressing pattern and eating habits. Most of the sign boards are in Gujrati.The tiled roof of houses appear distinct and different. From the platform, I get a chance to buy a copy of ‘Free Press Journal’, a daily published from Bhopal and Indore. The news items concerning Bhopal and surrounding towns remind me vividly of the six months spent by me as a Lecturer of Sociology at Bina in early eighties.

12. Between Jhamelda and Piplod stations, one notices a drizzle followed by a good rainfall for half an hour. The beauty of near by villages gets enhanced. Pools of water appear here and there. From nowhere, a swanky white car emerges, splashing water on the passers-by. Unmindful of rains, a few school children are seen enjoying the game of hide and seek. These developments have absolutely no impact on D.B. She is once again in a sleeping mode. She occasionally gets up to respond to calls, presumably from her life-partner. Soon one notices huge hoardings of Sanghi cement on both sides of railway line. On seeing them, one is reminded of the writings on walls concerning one quack of Rengarpura, Karol Bagh, who claimed to have solutions to all sex-related complications.
13. The prosperity of Gujarat is reflected through nice houses and modern highways that one sees through the train window. It prompts discussion on the well being of Gujaratis despite facing a series of communal riots following the burning of a train bogie at closeby Godhra. When we reach this famous place just before 11.00 hrs., all are eager to see the site of the unfortunate incident. The platform situated at an altitude of 119 feet above sea level, looks organized and clean. Before reaching the now historical site, one comes across a number of Pakora vendors. I am told that this place as also Vadodra are famous for the fried delights in the same way as Ratlam is known for Namkeens. Despite being prohibited by the doctor, I try a combination of tasty Pakoras. Thereafter, I venture to see the famous black spot of the contempory history, which promted constitution of two Inquiry Commissions.
14. Before the train leaves Godhra, I rush back to my compartment. Near my seat as also in the next cabin, a few boys & girls are found busy charging their mobile phones. This sort of facility was unheard of, a couple of years ago. A mobile rings up in the process. A young lady having short curly hairs and wearing a tight pair of cream cardroys, makes no mistake in expresssing her emotions loudly to her mother at the other end. One wishes and prays that the Government of the day soon does something to check the noise pollution emanated by the flourishing cell culture.
15. I pretend to read a book and try a nap before getting a chance to see Vadodra. Soon, I am drawn to an interesting conversation between a young man and a person of 60 years of age. The former, coming from New Delhi, was looking for a reasonably priced acomodation at Vadodra to enable him to take an interview for job enhancement. The old man guided him to Hotel Suraj located near the exit gate. Before the train comes closer to his destination, the old man recounts the incident of a massive fire in B-3 coach of this very train, a couple of days ago. He adds that the train was ultimately delayed by four hours.We all thank our stars, therefore, on safely making it to Vadodra. Afterall, our coach too had the same number.
16.The view at the platform was an eye opener. It looked well maintained.Comparing its look and upkeep with the stations of North India was pointless. There were bright and readable signages all over.But the sight which stole the show was an acquarium kept at a vantage point.Among the eatables,it was the Pakora which was all pervading.A wide variety of it attracted even the likes of DB for the first time to a platform. She consumed 250 grams of one variety in addition to carrying another one in packed form, possibly for her hubby waiting anxiously at the Bandra station.Apart from the Pakoras, Dhoklas, Bondas, sweets, Puri and Subji are also available in plenty.
17. The overall behaviour of the passengers in this part of the country is worth appreciating. There are no cases of attempted theft or forced entries or occupations of reserved seats. The moving train provides an opportunity to witness the vast portions of the developed and prosperous Vadodara. I again dig up my past to refreshen myself about similar views of Allahabad, Kanpur, Etawah, Hathras, Aligarh, Ghaziabad etc.from the ever slow Tata-Amritsar Express during my innumerable journeys as a post-graduate student between Ranchi and Delhi in the late seventees and early eightees. While the sight of a mosque and dome of a historic building attracts,the slums in the foreground act as a distracting force.When the train picks up rapid speed to make up little bit of the lost time,I am attracted towards the never say die attitude of one Parshuram Acharya.He is not interested in looking outside or engaging in any useless conversation.He is,rather,working tirelessly on his laptop,checking E-mails and attempting to reply to some of them in this state of mobility.The polite businessman in him occasionally finds time to convey to his near and dear ones,the possible arrival time of the train at Mumbai.On being offered this kind of opportunity by him,I too converse with Dawney and Anks.While I do so,I gather the news that a driver and a protocol assistant will be waiting for me when the train reaches Mumbai in another six hours or so.
18.It is lunch time when the train has another sheduled halt at Bharoach.I attempt a leisurly walk but soon return on not finding anything worthwhile to see and take note of.When I am in the process of relishing the Railway supplied lunch,I am attracted to the mighty Narmada,one of the two famous rivers of Gujarat.One is informed that it is extremely crucial for the overall sustenance of the State.Soon to be seen, the Tapi river flowing between Ankleshwar,the vast Chemical hub and Surat,however,is reported to be a bane for the state.
19. On reaching Surat around 14.00 hours in the afternoon,the calamity of Plague of 1984 immediately comes to mind.Also I am reminded of the relentless efforts of a dynamic IAS officer,then heading its Municipal Corporation.His sincereity and hard work had not only ensured freedom from plague sooner than expected but he could also devise an unique formula for profit making by the much maligned municipal bodies. Needless to say,he went on to inspire the admistrators of such bodies in other states.
20. From the conversation of others, I further pick up the information that Surat is a prominent textile centre,apart from being a highly developed diamond, steel, dress material and sari centre. Goods produced at a low cost find a ready market all over the country. The latest Chinese consumer products too are imitated in no time.Reliance and many bigwigs of textile and chemical industry have their mammoth units in the vicinity. The busy Hazira port and Vapi industrial town too are reported close by.A five minute halt at the station gives an exposure of traditionally dressed Muslim community.One is also reminded about the busy and bustling Surat port of the pre-British era.
21. Around 16.50 hours, subsequent to crossing Vaitarna river,low hills situated along the Arabian Sea are visible.As the train enters Thane area of Maharastra,a number of serene creeks leading to the Arabian sea are visible.The train actually becomes slow and brings in some monotony while passing through a long bridge over the Thane Creek.Next,one notices rather unorganised yet flourishing real estate.In the process,we also pass through a number of slums.Mumbai culture is there to see once the fast moving and vibrant local trains are sighted.A line of quick comparison between the lifestyles of the Mumbaikars viz a viz Delhiites is heard.Saloni,the little charming girl comes out of her own impressions of congested but lively Mumbai.She,in addition,finds Mumbai women using trains more frequently and with added confidence as compared to their counterparts of Delhi or elsewhere.
22.In this backdrop,one tries to pick up more insight into India’s commercial capital as the train halts for a while at Borivali,followed by brief and inconsequential halts at Kandivali, Malad, Jogeshwari, Andheri and Santa Cruz.I feel excited and elated on visiting Mumbai by train after a gap of twenty three years.
23. As we move closer to Bandra, the terminal point, expression on DB’s face changes. As such , she had a wash, combed her hairs and applied a bit of make up.She was, perhaps, dying to get a glimpse of her life partner after weeks if not months.Her faithful brother lends his hand in repacking her bag.As soon as she gets up to finally leave her berth,her cell rings.Who else it could be except her prince? Oh no,it turns out to be a missed call.Acharya,Saloni’s family and the young job aspirants,in the meanwhile, succeed in establishing a contact or two with their near and dear ones.Practically everyone utters ‘the train is late by ten to fifteen minutes’.While commenting so,perhaps they fail to realise that a train can genuinely lag behind due to the circumstances sometimes beyond anyone’s control.As long as a long distance is arrived
at without any mishap,the credit in all fairness should go to the vast and experinced railway set up.
24.The imminent hour comes.We are reported very close to Bandra.The expected rush leads to the exit gates.While Acharya says the train is bound to touch the platform on the left,the youngmen report otherwise.Saloni prefers to maintain her cool.She leaves it to her parents to provide the necessary guidance.
25.At last DB’s cell rings again.This time she faces no disappointment.Her husband is on the other end.Happiness returns.She has a much needed sigh of relief.She rushes to the door only to be politely advised to have patience.Sharp at 18.10 hrs., Bandra station comes.While all manage to get down one by one,DB still looks for HIM.He must be somewhere.Afterall,his call was received moments ago.She consoles herself.He ultimately surfaces.Both not only look at each other,they actually begin running from the opposite directions.It is only a matter of seconds that the usual rejoining scene straight from a Hindi movie is enacted.More appropriately,it is akin to the ending of ‘Mr.and Mrs Iyer’minus the chubby toddler.While they unknowingly try to ignore the world around them for a moment,it is my turn to focus rapt attention on the placard bearing my name.Yes,Sangli,the smiling Protocol Assistant is sighted.By folding his hands,he introduces himself.I shake hand with him.I feel happy and relieved.My joy multiplies when informed of the telephonic contact he had with my family.

26.Without any success,I try to relocate DB,Acharya,young job aspirants or Saloni.They are not sighted again.Perhaps they have,by now, mingled with the vast ocean of humanity that Mumbai has.Time is ripe for me to bid good bye to the train in which I spent lovely and memorable twenty hours.I place myself at the disposal of Sona,the unassuming driver from the trusted world of bureaucracy to show me the interesting spots in the ever-resilient Mumbai.

RISE OF BARACK HUSSEIN OBAMA

January 20, 2009 will be a red letter day not only for the Americans but for all the under privileged sections. History was created when 47 year old Obama, having a troubled childhood, took oath as the 44th President of the U.S.A. For the prosperous and hitherto carefree Americans, change of guard at the top every four years is not something new. This year, it was special and unusual because a member of an immigrant African American community had won decisively for the supreme position for the first time.
It goes without saying that barely forty five years ago none of them had a right to vote. Many of them are still subjected to racial discriminations and assaults. No wonder, braving bone numbing cold, a large number of them had assembled for the big event at the National Mall and for the ‘curtain raiser’ at the Lincoln Memorial, the previous day.

The triumph of cyber savvy Obama has been made possible due to rare unity among the rapidly emerging immigrant community as also gradual loss of ‘White’ faith in George Bush on account of his many divisive policies, meddling in Iraq and his apparent failure to control the domestic economy which resulted in loss of three million jobs. It could be, therefore, considered positive as also negative exercise of franchise.

The meteoric rise of son of an erstwhile Kenyan from a Senator to the President in less than five years is momentous by any reckoning. The way he spoke, campaigned and carried himself forward, sets brilliant standards. He appears to posses the required capability, appeal and the charisma which enables him to deliver concise, balanced and effective speeches having substance and conviction. Due to his sheer hard work and determination he has transformed into a magnificent orator, a quality gained and inculcated normally only after years of experience. The way he speaks, he promises a fair degree of optimism and shows a certain ray of hope to the people from various walks of life.
At his meticulously organised ‘inauguration’, he displayed courtesy and humility right from the outset. He conveyed everything powerfully without resorting to any direct criticism. What he did not refer to-the concerns arising from global warming, faith and determination of Americans, the famous inspirational words of George Washington, their capability to draw strength from the Christians, Muslims, Jews ,Hindus, and the non-believers etc?. Though any mention of Israel-Palestine conflict or Pakistan was avoided, his statement,” Why a man whose father less than sixty years ago might not have been served at a local restaurant can now stand (before you) to take a most sacred oath” was not only touching but it may have brought tears to many eyes. His tough message to the elements perpetrating terror will be welcomed everywhere provided the grounds are facilitated for the actual crackdown.
He has raised expectations of people hailing from diverse nationalities. Can he deliver or will he be allowed to swim against the tide? The expression that only time will tell may perhaps be inappropriate in this case for the simple reason that an US President gets roughly four years to understand, correct and modify. On his part, he has cautiously stated that “meeting any of these challenges will not be easy”.
His top two priority tasks, withdrawal of troops from Iraq and closing down the Guantanamo Bay prison may be accomplished if his allies back his will and determination. Putting the economy back on the rails, however, may take longer than expected. Obama, the fourth youngest person to occupy the coveted oval office, deserves more time to perform.

A JOURNEY TO THE ABODE OF MONKEY GOD.

It was another holiday after only two working days. The previous night was very chilly, night temperature having plummeted to four degree Celsius. One did not expect a clear day after having experienced inclement weather, the previous evening. However, it was a pleasant surprise to see the blue sky when I pulled aside the curtains of the bedroom. Upon finishing morning exercises followed by a somewhat relaxed breakfast, I contacted ‘Sonam Agya’ and explored the possibility of making it to one of the holy scenic sights in the vicinity of the city.

We embarked upon the journey by 3 p.m. in the afternoon. It was a seven kilometer drive by a hardy Gypsy on the road falling in the historic trade route through Nathu-la to Tibet. One came across extremely beautiful pine trees in the area surrounding Chandmari village as also the attempts of the human beings to disturb nature by way of erecting concrete jungles in order to make a fast buck. There were some sinking stretches of land, nevertheless. The road wore an empty look as it was a holiday. Possibly, people at large were basking in sun in their courtyards or terraces. Having crossed four kilometres, we saw a diversion for Ganesh Tok. A drive of another kilometer through tall, attractive pine trees took us to the first Sikkim Police Check-post for Nathu-la. Before we turned left on the road leading to Hanuman Tok, we got a panoramic view of the Rongyek Jail, located roundabout thousand feet below the check-post. Despite being a cold day, tourists would be seen in the vehicles every now and then.

We were treated to a breathtaking, delightful and fantastic sight as we began somewhat steep two kilometer climb from the check-post to the famous temple. It was an extremely clear day with Mediterranean blue sky. The whole scenario was not only stunning but inspiring as well. As we climb, we get closer to the lap of the beautiful nature. Apart from the tall pine trees and streams, large number of mountain ranges appear on the horizon. The Almighty Sun was not only shining but reaching every where. Very soon we reached a cluster of Army barracks next to the
Luksyama, the royal cremation ground. A drive ahead finally took us to the parking area (altitude-7200 ft.) for the Hanuman Tok Temple. It was a large flat piece of land having thick grass cover. One was tempted to take a round before proceeding to the steps leading to the temple. A statue of Lord Hanuman built by the efforts of a former M.P. of Sikkim greets us at the entrance. From the parking place to the steps and finally to the shoe take off point, it was spic and span. The whole pathway was spotlessly clean so as to create right kind of mood to see, appreciate and meditate. A very well kept lawn at the base of the temple was next to draw our attention.
Prior to our entry, the Army priest informs that the temple was originally built in 1953 by the efforts of Sri Appa B. Pant, the former Political Officer of Sikkim. It was subsequently renovated, expanded and inaugurated by the present Chief Minister of Sikkim in September 1998. One was in a different world upon getting a spectacular view of the Mount Kanchenjunga and surrounding peaks. A large number of snow clad peaks were visible even when we stepped into the temple. Upon paying obeisance to the Lord Hanuman, the presiding deity, we read the Hanuman Chalisa and one Aarati. The temple like its surroundings was spotlessly clean and had a different aura. We took four to five rounds of the deity, paid our regards, took some vows and prayed for blessings of the God in order to fulfill some of our wishes and aspirations.
Adjacent to the main temple, a Sai Baba Temple has been constructed two to three years ago. It has sufficient space for singing hymns and performing kirtans. When we came out, we found a few Bengali tourists thronging the place. Most of them carried cameras to take the sweet memories of the place back home. In addition to the beauty, it was so quiet that one felt like spending the whole evening at the temple. However, there were certain other things in store to follow.
With a certain degree of reluctance and upon resisting the temptation, we finally get down to the parking place and begin driving down the hill in a quiet but highly satisfying mode. A visit to this famous tourist spot after more than a decade was going to be a rewarding and unforgettable experience. Memories of this blissfully calm and quiet hilltop may, perhaps, be cherished for a long time to come.

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF MANSHA

(7/1/09)

After a hectic day of brainstorming deliberations, evenings are supposedly earmarked for informal chitchat over a dining session. Not all dinner events are, however, relaxing affairs. The one, organized in connection with a regional summit in January 2009 was certain to last in memory for a substantial period.
Mansha, having left an indelible mark over the participants, made it in time at the beautifully lit, partially open setting of the Akshara Theatre. Formally dressed as also donning casual attires, young men and women of the region too arrived at the expected hour. They were helping themselves generously with drinks and ‘eats’. Apart from informal seating arrangement, live performance of the orchestra became icing on the cake. One after another, popular English numbers were melodiously sung by the young boys & girls. The overall coordination between the singers and the accompanying artists was so good that it became difficult to judge whether the vocal chords had the supremacy or the excellent guitar support. Promising young faces cheered the performers more than anyone else.
Mansha went round the tables to personally welcome the guests and exchange a few informal notes. The photographers, did not miss any opportunity to capture the memorable moments. Soon, the hosts, Gopal Sarman and his beautiful wife, Jalabala, wearing informal, yet attractive dresses were introduced by Mansha in his true inimitable style. Majority of the invitees were impressed by the visual appearance of the couple. Very few could recall their unusual theatrical experiments of projecting Ramayana and its multiple characters to western audiences, nearly three decades ago which was followed by their powerful and memorable serial on Indian cultural ethos over the national television.
One more western number, in the meanwhile, was sung by a youngster having a deep soothing voice. Unfortunately, expected applause did not come through. Perhaps the guests were getting engrossed with gossip and tasty food. At this juncture, Mansha came back to the podium in the company of a young, smart lady, wearing a long red coloured coat with a contrasting black trouser. It appeared that she was also going to perform.
Displaying requisite charm and poise, she began well, soon to be interrupted by Mansha. This break, however, brought more smiles to the listeners. While he took out a piece of paper and whispered something to the young lady, it was time to hear an old memorable song entitled “Its
now or never……………………My love will not die”. The song had a captivating and mesmerizing effect. In addition to providing a pleasing experience, it brought back the beautiful memories of a bygone era. One more duet from them succeeded in holding the rapt attention of the audience. Some of them began swinging their bodies. Clap and verbal applause followed. Once again Mansha was the focus of attention.
By this time, it had become sufficiently cold for those having failed in ‘warming up’ themselves. Long queue next to buffet layout was worth it. A large number of delicious dishes awaited the hungry jacks. Some serious drinkers, nevertheless, were still glued to the bar area. Interactions between the strangers, simultaneously, took place on the dining table.
Close to 11.00 p.m, it was the time to bid good bye. Mansha, now in the company of his graceful life partner, made a quiet exit. Offering of a colourful booklet with mouth-watering ‘Paan’ (betel-nut)proved fitting parting gifts. Wen, the faithful Secretary of Mansha too tried his hand at singing at this late hour. Why should he be left behind, when his mentor was calling the shots throughout the day? While the fully occupied premises slowly began giving a deserted look, the parking area became full of activity. The guests, one by one, zoomed off in their respective vehicles by carrying sweet memories of the pleasant evening remarkably organized and catered to, by the personal attention of Mansha, the dynamic bureaucrat turned political celebrity.

FANTASY SOCCER

It was the solemn occasion of Pang Lhabsol. Being a holiday the people of Namchi were in a festive mood upon conclusion of a pooja at the Alley Monastery. The weather looked congenial despite light showers experienced the previous evening. Soon after breakfast, all the paths led to the picturesque District Ground. It was being spruced up to host a Friendly ‘nine a side’ football match between the District Officers (DO) and the Local Gentries(LG).
When sufficient number of people thronged the place, a request was formally delivered to the local MLA and Minister, Public Works to grace the event as the Chief Guest. Having arrived in advance, he was busy, interacting with his constituents in a Government Guest House.
The usual pomp and show was visible at the jampacked ground. The Minister was accorded a traditional welcome. After a ‘tika’ was applied on his forehead, he made the waiting girls, representing three communities, richer by Rs. 300/ each. Thereafter, a band of well dressed teenaged boys played a soothing tune in the middle of the ground.
To start the process, the Minister was introduced to the rival captains and their team-mates. Next, it was the turn of the Minister to kick the new ball. The way he did it, the onlookers got an inkling of the sportsmanship possessed by him in past.
The match began with a fair degree of fun and enthusiasm. It took some time before the spectators noticed the presence of Bhaichung Bhutia, the local hero and the India Skipper playing for the DO. Bhaichung and a few erstwhile players showed their skill and acumen right from kick-off. As a result, the LG looked perturbed, if not shattered. Since the weather was fine, natural play was very much possible. Nevertheless, as per usual experience in this kind of game, a few felt breathless, to start with. The spectators had turned up for the occasion dressed in their attractive ethnic outfits and accessories. Like any other place, the children formed the largest group.
Despite fast movement of the ball coupled with good footwork, the first twenty five minutes were devoid of any result. By this time, however, a kind of manifest division was seen among the jubilant spectators. While the stand facing Youth Hostel was cheering the DO, those occupying the West and North stand were seen shouting for the LG. Just before the whistle for the breather, Bhaichung, aided by a superb pass from Chettri, the upcoming star, could reach deep inside the goal area of the LG. He got past the athletic goalkeeper and scored a remarkable field goal. Apart from the visual treat and the thunderous applause, same was confirmed by the Referee in his typical dancing style. The spectators now had everything to cheer and relish. In addition to giving an upper edge to OT, it restored the interest in the game, which, so to say, was waning, thanks to goalless twenty five minutes.
An unusual warmth and bonhomie was witnessed during the interval. Both the teams were offered glucose, water, squash, and juices in addition to unusual items-the delicious steamed momos and appetizing chicken legs. Discussions took place on the strategy to be followed in the later half. The idea was not only to score goals but also provide adequate humour and entertainment to the festive crowd, watching the game with a rapt attention.
Unlike in regular matches, the referee volunteered to play a second fiddle in the second half. The younger but experienced Lineman, therefore, walked into his exalted shoes with a beaming face. The play, nonetheless, could resume only after the new referee took a “bathroom break”, something he could have easily availed of during the interval. Since plenty of time was available, he was allowed this unforeseen liberty.
With the passage of time, the stamina of the players began getting exhausted. Certain sections of the crowd, however, could discover novel ways to boost the morale of their respective teams.
The LG displayed a picture of renewed confidence with fresh young blood entering their ranks. Their teamwork and occasional speed bore fruits in the last ten minutes. Though they could not score a field goal, Garjaman Gurung, their oldest player, backed brilliantly by a Jorethang Sardar, managed to convert a penalty corner with perfection. With this goal, things became more interesting.
At the time of a free kick, the strategy of DO was discussed in a ‘professional ‘fashion, even when they exceeded the permitted time. The field placements also underwent a change with more active players occupying the forward line and the hefty and tired ones relegated as defenders. DO’s effective goalkeeper too had to be replaced to enable him to attend to an emergency. Many of them had to be politely requested, in addition, not to indulge in any conversation with the spectators.
At last, the second goal for DO was scored by Shukla, their captain, as a result of a fine pass by the combined initiatives of Chhetri and Bhaichung. Even after confirming the same and Shukla being hugged and lifted by the fellow players, he won’t release the ball. Afterall, it was a defining moment for his team. The referee, however, showed his reluctance to pronounce the desperately needed verdict in their favour. He ruled that the Captain was ‘off side’. Same was later confirmed by his colleague.
The sudden bout of pleasure, however, vanished in thin air. Shukla felt being awakened by Tom, his cute, quiet cat. He discovered that he was not in Namchi or any other part of Sikkim. Rather, he was sleeping to glory in New Delhi. May be, he had a really sound sleep which was instrumental in this nice dream. Even if it was momentary, not only he smiled, he felt elated as well. He was in a different world. The dream, per se, brought back sweet memories of the past. Shukla made no mistake in ringing up Bhaichung Bhutia and eloquently shared the experience of a match that never took place. Fresh from his Asia Cup triumph, Bhaichung smiled and reciprocated his feelings.

LISA’s SIKKIM SOJOURN

Lisa experienced a reeling headache soon after having a sumptuous dinner. Past midnight, she was struggling with her notes. She had to take the last paper of Economics Honours, the following day. Being the only girl child in a family residing in Shiv Nagar area of Janakpuri, she was Papa’s darling. Mummy, nonetheless, also loved her on account of her undemanding nature and studious approach. On conclusion of her exams, she was promised a holiday in the Himalayan paradise of Sikkim. Hectic preparations had to be made for journey and accommodation. Though she had performed reasonably well in the last terminal test of International Trade & Banking at the Venkateshwara College, yet, she began showing signs of mild nervousness in the wee hours of the morning. A cup of hot tea restored her confidence.
Lisa could finish her last paper fairly well inspite of some questions being tricky and indirect. Her favourite dish greeted her when she came back home. In the evening, J.P.Sinha returned sooner than expected. The information culled out from the agents and internet, was shared with the family. His persistent efforts had resulted in confirmation of air tickets and accommodation in three out of four places. Due to the X’mas holidays, position was reported tight every where. He, therefore, advised his off-springs to be prepared to share rooms in case their requirement was not met.
Following dinner, packing began .While the male members packed necessary items, Lisa was seen assisting Mummy in putting biscuits and home-made cookies. Space was also created for her Teddy Bear. In view of her experience, Rita Sinha desired children to travel light and resort to ‘repeat’ formula like foreigners. Somehow, it did not have the expected impact. It was well past eleven pm, when packing session concluded.
As this was their first air journey, thanks to relaxation in LTC Rules concerning North East, a different kind of joy was visible. The drive to Delhi airport took an hour. Fortunately, queues were not long in the Terminal Building. While three of their suitcases were put in the baggage, each of them had to carry a hand bag. By the time they boarded Jetair flight 9W 602, everything appeared on time. A minor delay did occur due to delayed identification of a purse coupled with late reporting by one Minister.
Smartly dressed and energetic hostesses greeted the passengers. They spelt out basic flight related precautions. Upon offering glasses of lemon juice, announcement was made for an early lunch due to inclement weather ahead. Lisa, occupying a window seat seemed to enjoy every bit of her grub. Her mood was lifted further on being given an extra bowl of desert. While noticing exotic Mt.Everest and other Himalayan peaks, she would not refrain from eliciting comments from Papa and Vinod. Amod and Mummy, on the contrary, were seen relishing a nap, every now and then.
Their exciting maiden air journey came to end around 12 noon when the air craft began descending towards the Bagdogra airport. On landing luggage collection was a short affair. While same was being performed, Lisa and Vinod picked up brochures from a smiling attendant of Sikkim Tourism. While prepaid taxis for Gangtok were available, none of them was keen to undertake a 135 kms journey to Pelling in West Sikkim. A timely mediation by a nice soul persuaded one driver to take the Sinhas up to Jorethang (40 km short of Pelling).A deal was struck in view of his promise to arrange a connecting taxi for Pelling.
First fifteen kilometers nowhere gave the impression that a hill station was close by. It was the usual congestion and occasional violation of traffic rules by pedestrians and the cattle alike. Very soon, however, they came across a patch of soothing green forest. Tashi Tamang, the driver informed that the highway would lead to Kalimpong, apart from Sikkim and that from the gigantic Coronation Bridge, a diversion would go to Assam and Phunsoling in Bhutan .
A further drive of ten kms, brought them in the lap of the green mountains. The mighty Teesta river was seen making a defiant statement. Observing the beautiful sight of the clean meandering river, the expected temptation to shoot could not be resisted. While Vinod grabbed the camera from Mrs. Sinha’s purse, Lisa demanded that she be allowed to try her hand first. Sensing some scuffle, J.P.Sinha himself took beautiful shots of the fast flowing river. Thereafter, to please Lisa, camera was passed on to her. She, on her part, took memorable snaps of baby monkeys grabbing bananas and bread pieces being thrown by the passersby. This scenario could be noted for another half an hour.
At Kalijhora village, little bit of drizzle was experienced. Time was ripe for a tea break. The taste of noodles and momos at a joint was simply awesome. While munching Kurkure chips, Tashi narrated tales concerning tourists. To him, the foreigners would refrain from spending. The fellow Indians, especially from the North, however, will have no inhibition on this count. They, in addition, were also liberal in giving tips.
Onward journey up to Teesta Bazar was full of fun. Greenish blue colour of river water was a treat to watch. Lisa noted that a road was branching off to Darjeeling. Distance reported was barely thirty kms. Since she had heard positive stories regarding this beautiful hill resort, she lost no time in requesting Papa to take a detour via Darjeeling. “Same was not possible for want of the requisite permit”, informed Tashi. ”May be next time”, Daddy intervened to say.
The next four kilometres provided a scenic view of the Teesta river and its confluence with Rangeet. Plenty of shots were, therefore, taken. At the Melli check-post, an impressive multi-coloured gate welcomed visitors to South Sikkim. All heaved a sigh of relief on knowing that Jorethang was barely twenty six kms away. Though the Rangeet river on the left was no less attractive as compared to the Teesta , by this time fatigue was apparent on every one’s face. Lisa, therefore, bent to sleep in Mummy’s lap. Amod followed the suit on the front seat. Vinod, on the other hand, gave company to Papa in discussing the places of interest in West and South Sikkim.
Arrival at Jorethang coincided with sun-set. The flat town looked planned and clean. In one earmarked corner, dozens of stalls were selling vegetables and fruits. Unusually broad streets were well-lit. The family settled for a quick toilet and tea break. Local leaf tea-Temi tasted great. While Lisa enjoyed home made snacks and tea in the company of a few Sikkimese girls, Amode and Vinod, thanks to their flamboyance, got attracted to the sparkling cable stayed bridge over the Rangeet. While returning, they saw attractive paintings depicting the ethnic communities of Sikkim.
In the meanwhile, Tashi came with a pleasant surprise. A friend of his, visiting Legship, had agreed to lift the family, provided they could squeeze into four seats of his Bolero. With a view to save time, this offer was promptly responded to. More than any one else, it was Lisa who aspired to reach Pelling fast.
The halt at Hotel Trishna at Legship gave much needed rest to the Sinhas. Though the place was small, they were fortunate to get tasty food with insignificant hole in their pocket. Before departing for Pelling on day two, a visit to the Kirateshwar Mahadev temple proved refreshing. Amod, Vinod and Lisa were thrilled to have a feel of a foot suspension bridge. They could not believe that a bridge could shake also. On the other bank of Rangeet, it was amazing to see one hundred and eight Shiv Lings in a hall next to the main temple. A hassle free darshan on a bright sunny day lifted everyone’s spirits.
Steep climb from Legship enabled them to have a bird’s eye view of Ravangla,Kewzing and Mangalbarey. Some portions of narrow 25 kilometre long road did prove troublesome. Yet the rich forest cover and cluster of clean houses made up the loss.
The family checked into the Hotel Phamrong at Pelling. It was beyond one’s imagination to see over fifty hotels in an otherwise small place situated at an altitude of 6100 feet. Probably it was due to the breathtaking view of Mt. Kanchenjunga and adjoining peaks(most of them above 20,000 feet). In addition, Pelling was also the gateway to many lakes, waterfalls and monasteries, apart from facilitating the mountaineers to the base camp of Mt.Kanchenjunga at Yuksom.
The pre-lunch visit to Pemayangtse Monastery was rewarding. The 17th Century monastery of the Nyingmapa sect had a commanding view. It was learnt that this second oldest monastery of Sikkim had been entrusted with the task to perform all the religious functions of the erstwhile monarch. Upon admiring the statues of Lord Buddha, Guru Padmasambhava, and Goddess Tara, it was a treat to watch other precious images, mural paintings and a marvelous wooden structure on the top floor. Latter depicted the Maha Guru’s Heavenly Palace(Zang-dok-Palri)
Since the Rabdentse Ruins was at a walking distance, Sinhas decided to have a glance even when it meant postponement of lunch. The second capital of the erstwhile Chogyal had been carefully restored by the A.S.I. Beautiful view of the Mt.Kanchenjunga, Mt.Kabru and Mt.Pandim was to leave a lasting impression, besides providing an excellent photo opportunity.
Prior to the onset of dusk, Amod and Vinod accompanied an energetic Bhutia lad to Sanga-Choling Monastery built in 1697. Lisa, on the contrary, took her mother to the Pelling School to mingle freely with the hill children. Not only she could see smart and healthy students play football, they did rehearse for a play to be staged after a week. The senior most Sinha, in the meanwhile, got immense satisfaction in taking a nap in the hotel room. Every one, thus discovered his/her own way to relax and recharge.
To measure her cardio-vascular strength, Lisa resorted to brisk walk in the Pelling Bazar. Seeing twinkling stars clearly after a long time and being bestowed with an opportunity to breath in pollution free air, she was in high spirits. She was waiting also desperately to get an early morning mesmerizing view of the Mt.Kanchenjunga. She prayed that clouds should not hinder the view.
It was bone chilling cold at 4.00 a.m. when the wake up call was given. Amod and Vinod, otherwise sleeping to glory were promptly woken up. The guardian deity of Sikkim was at its best when first few rays of Sun fell over it. Slowly the charm of the five soaring summits got further enhanced. The pinkish glow became dazzling white in the backdrop of a radiant blue sky in about twenty minutes. The unique scenario captured meticulously on camera, brought incalculable freshness to their mind. The experience was to be felt from within. It was rather difficult to narrate. It, nevertheless, prompted Lisa to acquire a handycam soon.
The third day at Sikkim began after a hearty breakfast. The rare early morning view of the snow clad mountains dominated the discussions in the dining hall. Before fixing a cab for sight seeing, the clear view of Dentam, and Hee-Bermiok was captured into the camera. On way to Darap, large cardamom plantations were visible all over. The Darap waterfalls, however, failed to impress at this time of the year. The family interacted with a bunch of tiny tots close to a hamlet. Their pink cheeks and overall innocence could attract anybody. Soon thereafter, they briefly visited the Rimbi mini hydel project and the upcoming Sewaro Rock Garden.
After a leisurely drive of half an hour it was simply amazing to see a huge waterbody-the Khecheopalri Lake. Remaining hidden under a rich forest cover, the lake was sacred both to the Buddhists and the Hindus. The birds, not the human beings ensured cleanliness of the lake. According to a Lama, they donot permit even a single leaf to float on the lake surface. While Mr.and Mrs. Sinha attempted meditation to feel the overall solitude, Lisa and her brothers found immense pleasure in rotating the wooden prayer wheels. A few foreign tourists gave them company in taking a round of the crystal clear lake. It was nice to interact with the group, primarily interested in trekking to the Dzongri area.
From Khecheopalri it was a smooth drive down to the Kanchenjunga twin waterfalls. Situated very close to state highway leading to Yuksom, its breathtaking beauty and overall grandeur highly impressed the Sinhas. Even though its water was ice cold, Amod, Vinod and Lisa derived pleasure in receiving its showers. While the child in them was thoroughly engrossed in enjoying, their camera was saved from being swept away by a vigilant guide. He was suitably tipped.
An impromptchu cold water bath proved a good wake up call for lunch. Due to a minor landslide, however, they survived on chips and popcorns for a while. A valiant search for even Maggie noodles did not bear any fruit. The nearest eating joint was five kilometers ahead of the slide point. Subsequent to a wait of little over an hour, the road was through again but speed became a casualty on account of piling up of the vehicles on both the sides. J.P.Sinha advised his children to take it in their stride and while feeling so they should appreciate the constraints faced by the villagers of the area, more so, during the Monsoon.
A late buffet lunch at Dzongrilla Hotel at Yuksom restored moments of happiness. In the post lunch period, visits were undertaken to the Consecration Point of the first Chogyal at Norbugang Chorten and two adjoining lakes. As a steep trek to Dubdi, the oldest monastery of Sikkim, was out of question, the Sinhas focus sed their attention on the Phamrong Waterfalls. What a magnificent scenario it was! It turned out to be higher than the Kanchenjunga falls. A newly built footpath enabled Lisa and her siblings to get a close look. The parents settled for enjoying the beauty from the roadside. Perhaps, they were worn out.
The eventful third day concluded with a visit to the Tashiding Monastery located on the top of a heart shaped hill. Though the Sinhas had to resort to a gentle trek, it was worth it. After seeing the sancto sanctorum, Lisa listened to a Lama with rapt attention. He explained that the monastery was privileged to be blessed by Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century A.D. He also gave vivid descriptions of the Bhumchu(Holy water ceremony) organized at the monastery on the 14th and 15th day of the first Lunar month. Later the family was privileged to see ‘Thong-Wa-Rang-Dol’, the most holy Chorten(Stupa) of Sikkim. Amod gathered the information that the mere act of beholding it was supposed to wash away all the sins of the devotees. Thinking about these myths and beliefs of the mountain state, Lisa hit the pillow in the four seated room of the newly constructed Yatri Niwas at Tashiding. Though the day was hectic, the family had the satisfaction to being exposed to a good package of nature, culture and adventure.
With only one clear day at their hand, Sinhas had to rework their itinerary. There was so much to see but owing to time constraints some spots had to be left for the next visit. The penultimate day began with a gentle drive to the Rangeet Dam. The family had a thrilling boating experience. Next engagement was an interesting exposure to a village tourism site at Kewzing. Clear view of Mount Narsingh came as a bonus.
The uphill drive to Ravangla and therafter to Temi, provided them an opportunity to see the only tea estate of Sikkim. The garden spread out on a gentle hill-slope originating from the Tendong Hill facilitated a magnificent view of Mount Kanchenjunga on one extreme and the villages of East Sikkim on the other. The experience of lunch at a viewpoint in the middle of the garden proved very exhilarating. Afterall, Lisa was used to seeing the tea gardens only in the Bollywood films.
By 3 p.m. the Sinhas managed to reach Samdruptse or the ‘wish fulfilling hill’ to have a darshan of 135 feet high statue of Guru Padmasambhava The towering structure situated at a height of 6200 feet enabled them to have a panoramic view of Namchi and Darjeeling hills. It looked very awesome and spell-binding in the soothing afternoon sun. Apart from the chanting of hymns by the Lamas, the practice of offering scarves impressed everyone. While Lisa prayed for her MBA admission, Amod and Vinod desired to get promising job placements. Their parents meditated in the serene surroundings for the overall well being of the family.
The New Delhi based family had a well deserved rest at dusk in the Hotel Nayuma at Namchi. As compared to Pelling and Tashiding, it was less cold. Post-dinner, they took a stroll in the adjacent market. Even though majority of the shops had pulled down their shutters, a few curio items could be purchased as souvenir.
Sharp at eight a.m., the following day, imminent departure for Bagdogra took place. Four days meaningfully spent in the splendid setting of Sikkim were going to be in the memory of the Sinhas for a long time. Rejuvenated and refreshed by the unsurpassed beauty of Sikkim, Lisa felt more motivated and determined. Fastening the seat-belt in the aircraft, she vowed to build her career with renewed vigour and vitality.

GOA BY NIGHT

After having a relaxed and hearty dinner in the musical setting of ‘Canacona’, I could not resist the temptation to take a gentle stroll in the gigantic lobby of the Grand Resort. By a sheer chance, I met Arif, Nusrat and Ghulam. While chitchatting, from nowhere, we were attracted towards a Golf cart parked in one corner of the portico. When casually requested, the hotel watchman, a tall, hefty but helpful Sardarji agreed to arrange a free ride for us. Seeing the dimly-lit vast compound of the Portuguese style hotel and its golf course turned out to be an interesting experience. Towards the end, we were dropped outside the main gate. A group of well dressed village young men wanted to speak to us. They followed us gently when we wished to have a cup of tea at the only Dhaba of the remote coastal village. The owner was polite but his time was up. He was in the process of closing the shop. In the meanwhile, the young men approached us again.
Interaction with them revealed that many of them owned taxis and motorcycles, available for hire at any time of the day. Either the visitor could drive them to a location of choice or else one of them would do the job. The system sounded pleasantly different from other tourist spots of the country. One could sense a degree of trust reposed in the tourists. A number of nearby tourist spots were spelt out in addition to the packages available for Aguada Fort, the beaches of Anjuna and Candolim, Old Goa, Panaji, Margaon and a glance at the newly introduced casinos. Upon listening to the whole commentary, we decided to contact Yash, one of the owners, the following day. But he succeeded, then and there in persuading us to visit the Palolem beach, located at a distance of barely five kms. He promptly agreed when I expressed a desire to pick up my mouthorgan.
What a refreshing drive he gave! The cool breeze from the Arabian sea provided us the relief from the fatigue of a packed training day. While ensuring a smooth drive, Yash also gave us vivid descriptions of the life under the Portuguese, transforming villages, unabated construction boom, communal harmony in Goa, system of hiring rooms and cottages and an Annaconda snake which lived about three kms away from our hotel. When I finished a tune on the mouthorgan, he was quick to add that the whole area looked quiet and isolated as the tourist season was still a fortnight away. According to him, the foreigners who visited this part were mostly bag packers or the budget tourists from England and Australia. They had no worry in life. Most of them happen to be scantily clad drug addicts.
Hearing these accounts we reached the small settlement of Palolem. It was already 10.pm but the shops were open if not doing brisk business. Without losing time we walked to the beach. It was heartening to see some do’s and don’ts made prominent on a board of the local Municipal body. Though it was dark, a few steps over the sand made us aware that it was a clean beach. A few more steps took us closer to the sea waves. The mere touch of sea water lifted our spirits. A few couples were already enjoying darkness. After taking a few snaps, including of a parked fishing boat, I persuaded Ghulam to have a brush with the solitude .We sat down on sand which was partly wet. Feeling the sound of the waves for about fifteen minutes turned out to be more pleasing experience. Later we resorted to star gazing. Soon Nusrat and Arif rejoined us. We began walking towards the restaurants located along the beach. As expected, a bunch of foreign tourists were seated in funny postures. Some appeared normal, some were half asleep, while a sizeable chunk was found waiting to dance to the tune of English and Goan disco numbers, two hours later. For strange reasons, all the discos of the area become actually functional from midnight.
A peep into the Draupadi Restaurant revealed that a variety of food was available-Goan,Tandoori,Chinese as also continental. The menu offered was affordable. Having witnessed the scenario there, we proceeded to the market.
While a garment seller was calculating his day’s earnings, a Dhaba owner was busy getting a sumptuous item prepared. It was educative to talk to a curio shopkeeper and later listen to his explanations pertaining to the gems and precious stones before three deeply involved middle aged tourists. But what actually stole the show was a serious game of Billiards played between the waiter of an eating joint and a foreigner, whose bulky companion, smoking like a chimney, would occasionally curse him for ignoring her.
Seeing all this, time frittered away. Though the prescribed time of two hours was about to expire, Yash was conspicuous by his absence. Ultimately, he was located at the main entrance to the Palolem Beach. Of all the things, he was seen relishing a fight involving a few stray dogs. While we reminded him of his assignment, we were, at the same time, rather impressed with the frantic efforts of a teenaged tourist in resolving the dispute between the dogs. Her partner, unmindful of the developments taking place, stuck to their hired scooter till she succeeded in restoring peace. By admiring her concern and animal handling skills and bidding her Goodnight, we began driving back to Canacona.
I was too drowsy to play the mouthorgan again. While we did experience the cool sea breeze even around midnight, Yash switched on the tape. What a treat we received! While attentively listening to the Ghazals of Ghulam Ali, we never knew that we had returned to the hotel and it was not the hefty Sardarji but a make shift thin watchman who was unprofessionally welcoming us back. Even though we had exceeded the time limit, Yash was polite enough in realising only Rs Two Hundred. His infectious smile and good nature, won our hearts. While walking down aesthetically lit corridors, we decided to avail of the services of Yash again to discover other enchanting spots of Goa.

Waiting For a Train

After six years I got an opportunity to visit Old Delhi Railway Station. As regards volume of traffic on its approach road, I suppose, there was no perceptible change, contrary to the claims made by the civic and the Railway authorities. The old fashioned animal pulled carts still compete for space with the jet age Toyota and Suzuki automobiles. In this portion of the country’s capital, jay walkers show no regard to the traffic lights. When one gets closer to the station, there is hardly any board welcoming the private or the Government owned vehicles. Most of the entry points are in reality No Entry points. Driving, therefore, becomes a challenging proposition in these situations.
On gaining entry into the premises, a typical gothic style imposing structure welcomes you. The place is full of visible signs of renovation. Newly installed swanky flex and electronic boards give an indication of the state of preparedness for the 2010 Commonwealth Games. But what a mismatch they have with the upkeep of platforms! They are not only dirty and uneven; some of them have potholes as well.
The first and foremost information I sought, was the expected arrival time of 2817 Jharkhand Express,the train Amma had boarded for Delhi. A grave voice at the ‘Inquiry’ informed me that same was delayed further by more than an hour. It was nothing unusual. What actually shocked me instead was the flat refusal of the platform ticket. I presumed, the authorities were preempting inflow of unwanted visitors. When my turn came at the‘HELP’ counter, the reason given was the expected rush of people on the eve of the Chhath Pooja. I kept my fingers crossed, therefore, on learning about denial of platform ticket to a few persons. It was becoming irritating being in queue for nearly fifteen minutes. I along with a fellow ‘receiver’ could somehow convince the clerk that each one of us was genuinely intending to help our respective female relatives, who desperately looked forward to our assistance on account of age and safety considerations.
Having secured a platform ticket after some exercise, I was looking forward to a bout of relaxation. I would have preferred having a piping hot cup of tea. But as soon as I entered, I escaped being hit by a hand pulled cart carrying sealed parcel sacks, a scene one is familiar with since the childhood. I had not finished thanking my stars that I was disturbed by a group of middle aged men bent upon chasing a departing train. Though I was pushed aside by their rapid fire action, I watched the whole thing with a degree of amusement. Why can’t they be on time? Why can’t they have some consideration for the fellow passengers or those intending to play the role of ‘receivers’to perfection?, I asked my inner-self. While half of them could succeed in their efforts, a few hit others in the process. This included a petty hawker. He appeared to have lost eatables worth Rs. fifty. For a daily wage earner it meant a lot specially when he has to give commissions to gain entry into and sustain on a platform.
Upon being witness to what I have described, I managed to arrive on the platform number 10. A wait of fifteen minutes ensured a sort of seat for me. I prefer to call it a sort of seat as the person seating next to me was reluctant to remove his handbag on the false plea that another person was occupying it already. I pleaded, but he was not in a mood to budge. Later he realized that by not allowing me to sit properly, he was, perhaps not resorting to fair play.
A couple of trains arrived and left in the next half an hour. Each time a platform would be free, futile attempts by the sweepers would follow to clear the garbage on the tracks. Gradually, however, the stench emanating from there began becoming unbearable. It was, nevertheless, interesting to hear the casual and sometimes foolish queries of some passengers.
In order to get past the boredom ,I decided to take a stroll and thereafter establish a contact with Amma through a mobile number held by her immediate neighbor inside the compartment. The first attempt was futile. So I made a local call to pass on the news about delayed arrival of the train.
Soon the dull platform became alive with a minor scuffle between the telephone booth operator and a dirty urchin selling unlicensed, king sized saboodana papad. The former had taken away one piece apparently without even realizing a need to pay. Being hefty and in command of a better and bigger business outlet, I suppose he was in a position to dictate terms to the lesser mortals. The boy ultimately gave up after churning out choicest abuses. When it was all quiet, I wished to pay for the local call. Somehow the booth operator got an impression that I had made two calls but was willing to pay only for one. I did not surrender when he tried to charge me extra. Then he insisted on accepting only change. I was, on the contrary, possessive of same to make sundry payments outside the station. Seeing no other PCO,I had to relent. After all I was also anxious to speak to Amma in this hour of extended wait.
I could taste success in my second attempt. Not only I got a chance to hear her voice, but I was equally relieved to hear the reassuring voice of her caring ‘neighbor’.He appeared cool and unperturbed. Normally in good old days this sort of help would be forthcoming in the IInd Class Sleeper and most of the AC kind of passengers would not only act snobbish but they would be also aloof and insensitive to the fellow passengers. Maybe the magnanimous behavior in question was indicative of the enhanced purchasing power of the middle class or the said gentleman was actually nice, helpful and considerate.
When the electronic clock shows 15.55 hours, I decide to get up and look for the area wherein AI coach was expected. Finding no railway staff, the old trusted coolie comes to my rescue. All the half sleeping relatives of the passengers too come back to ‘life’. While waiting for the elusive train, a minor altercation is witnessed between a husband and his wife over something trivial. A truce is ensured in no time by timely intervention by some good soul. The catering stalls and the roving hawkers begin doing brisk business.
The scheduled time of 16.00 hours passes by but the train we were waiting for, is nowhere in sight. To add insult to our injuries, a train began departing from the adjacent platform number 8.Within a few minutes, however, a middle-aged Bengali gentleman, named Ritupurno Ghosh(RG) giving me company all along, shows a ray of hope. He notices an approaching engine. Everyone felt relieved. But our joy was short-lived. The engine in question was bringing in a local overcrowded rake. At this point of time, R.G. lost his patience. His scathing attack on the railways was not only genuine but justifiable. He was to collect a packet or two from his younger sister coming by 2817 and same was to be handed over to his elder brother departing by the Awadh Assam Express at 16:30 hours. While imagining his state of tension for a moment, I forgot my own.To console ourselves, we decided to sit down over a piece of huge railway parcel. A pouch of fruit juice gave us the needed relief.
Within a few minutes, God appeared kind to us. The time was 16:12 hours. The sought after announcement relating to arrival of 2817 was audible. We position ourselves appropriately. This time the engine and the accompanying coaches do not deceive us. Exactly at 16:18 hours, i.e. two hours and eighteen minutes behind schedule, the Jharkhand Express comes to a screeching halt. I have to run at least three hundred metres for locating A-1 coach. While doing so, I curse the Coolie in question for not guiding me properly. In the process,I lose touch with RG. Nevertheless, I pray to God for the success of his ambitious‘mission transfer’.
It takes me barely three minutes to locate Amma. She is beaming despite her extended journey. While coming out, she tries her best to overcome the pain emanating from her upper back. I lean forward to touch her feet. Seeing her after months amuses me. She reciprocates. As expected, behind her are Mr. and Mrs. Jayant Aggarwal of Ranchi, gently carrying her two bags. At the first glance,I perceive them to be very fine and benevolent. After Amma alights from the bogie with some difficulty, I take her to a vacant bench. While thanking Aggarwals profusely for their kind help extended throughout the journey, I ask if they need a lift to any point in the city. Apt comes the response that their brother,a resident of Gurgaon was already waiting outside the station. We lose no time in warmly shaking hands and conveying to each other the normal courtesy of being in touch in future.
While I begin walking towards the congested staircase leading to exit, I sincerely attempt to forget the sweet and sour experiences undergone at the Old Delhi Station for close to two hours. Focus of attention rightly begins shifting from the state of platform to more mundane things engaging my attention at home. This is how life goes on.

SIkkim Expedition to Mount Everest

Named after the legendary mountaineer and the first Everester from Sikkim, the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute is located at Gangtok. From the modest beginning as an adventure club in 1961, it assumed the status of a full-fledged mountaineering institute in 1963. In view of the pristine beauty and location of many peaks above the height of twenty two thousand feet, namely, Mt. Khangchendzonga, Mt. Kabru, Mt. Talung, Mt. Siniolchu, Mt. Simvo, Mt. Pandim, Mt. Rathong, and Mt. Paunhari, Sikkim was considered the right choice for training and pursuing the sport of mountaineering and adventure activities. Much ahead of this significant step, HMI, Darjeeling had started giving training to the budding mountaineers by using Yuksom area of West Sikkim as its base.
Though worthy sons of the soil, namely, Sonam Gyatso, Phu Dorji and Nadey Sherpa had achieved the difficult and challenging feat of climbing the Mount Everest, a need was recently felt to form a fresh group comprising of mountaineers from Sikkim as also other states and undertake an expedition to the ‘Sagarmatha’.
As a result of sincere work, commitment and painstaking planning for several weeks, a twenty member team was finally selected under the leadership of G.T.Bhutia, the former Principal of the SGMI. Dr. D.S.Burfal, an experienced mountaineer was chosen as the Deputy Leader and the expedition doctor. Of the twenty members, two were women, who hailed from Sikkim. One of them, Phulmaya Tamang had figured in the HMI Expedition to the world’s highest peak in 2003 but was unlucky in not reaching the summit.
Upon fulfilling the basic requirements and completion of necessary formalities, the team members had to undergo various rigorous sessions to determine their grit, stamina and determination. The objective was to put a sizeable number of mountaineers on the top. The team finally left Gangtok for New Delhi on 16th of March,2008.After some briefings, interactions and sensitizations for nearly a fortnight the highly spirited members were in a position to land at Kathmandu.
Subsequent to arranging essential climbing and camping equipments, food items and medicines, the work relating to logistics was tied up with a reputed company of Kathmandu. It took them another six days before they reached Lukla. There was nothing to worry on account of weather. Days were cool and sunny, while the nights were not very chilly. The team members, in addition, were in good health and high spirits. Perhaps, only setback the team faced was near the Namche Bazar(altitude 11,000 feet) when Bishnu, one of the members suddenly became indisposed. When sincere efforts to cure him failed, he had to be evacuated to Kathmandu.
Following a trek of another ten days over forty odd kilometers and undergoing acclimatization sessions, the team finally succeeded in setting up its first Base Camp at an altitude of 17,500 feet on 15th of April. Many of the members had the rich exposure of earlier expeditions. It became a plus point and an encouraging factor. The location maps began to be read seriously and the tips of seniors soon became the guiding principles. This being the main climbing season, a lot of activities were being witnessed in the surrounding rugged terrain. The team members did not forget to take part in a comprehensive puja for their well being and for the overall success of the expedition.
Slowly the thought of the daunting task ahead began occupying the mindset of every climber. But no one looked worried after a detailed interaction session on probable climbing routes. The next destination for them was the Khumbu Glacier. The climb was steep and therefore tough. The steep and hard ice walls on the way actually tested the technical skills of the climbers. They had to negotiate an ice maze using ladders, fixed ropes and ice axes.

After two days of hard work in the beautiful surroundings, the team could arrange its First Acclimatization Camp. A few of the members, however,had to be examined by the Deputy Leader for testing their endurance skills. They had to retreat on health grounds. With the passage of two more days, the team was in a position to climb a height of 6000 metres followed by another climb of 400 metres in the next five days. Thus, two additional rounds of acclimatizations could be completed. The Camp II was pitched at an altitude of 6400 metres on 26th April. Fourteen out of the original twenty mountaineers managed to reach this point. Intensity of cold was on rise, accompanied by strong winds and avalanche. Adequate precaution, therefore, had to be taken starting from the afternoons. At the night, biting cold conditions would prevail.
By 30th of April, further upward movement took place. Ultimately, the Fourth Acclimatization Camp could be set up. Sign of fatigue, now could be seen over the faces of a few members. When further planning and steps were being discussed, a news was received that the Government of China had imposed restrictions on more treacherous Northern Ridge approach to the peak. This was to ensure unhindered movement of the Olympic Torch. The expedition members, therefore, were compelled to modify their approach route and suspend further activities. They were, thus confined to the Camp II till 10th of May without any notable activity. They, nevertheless, kept themselves in good humor and encouraged each other to the best of their ability. When the Olympic Torch rally finally got over, further movement began.
The Camp III of the expedition could be set up on 13th May with tremendous hard work by braving inclement weather at an altitude of 7200 metres. This also meant a kind of fresh acclimatization process for the diehard 13 members. Profound discussions thereafter, led to the planning for the final assault. Further meticulous climb over the next seven days took them closer to the Lhotse Face. The view of Mt. Nuptse (25,850 feet) while ascending, was awesome. A halt or two in these beautiful settings lifted the spirits of everyone.
On 21st May, the climb began rather early for the famous transit point- South Col (26,200 ft.). Late in the afternoon, the proposed site of Camp IV located at an altitude of 8,000 metres could be approached. The sight of MT.Lhotse (27,890 feet)from here was simply out of world. It was pristine. It was crystal clear. Since the weather was very congenial, it was decided to make an attempt on the Mount Everest the same evening.
Keeping in view the fitness and overall performance, the leader decided to send D.D. Bhutia of Kalimpong first.By being cheered and encouraged by everyone, he began his climb around 19:30 hours. Kunzang Gyatso Bhutia of Sikkim followed him closely. Subsequent to almost non-stop movement of about eight hours in the trying conditions,including a 'jam' at the famous Hillary Steps, D.D. Bhutia was lucky to reach the summit of the magnificent Mount Everest at 29,035 feet. He made it at 5:30 am on 22nd May. Even though he was tired, he was extremely elated and satisfied. For him, rightly, it was a dream which came true. It was enthralling and mesmerising on top of the world. Peaks in the neighbourhood were also visible clearly.
Before Kunzang Gyatso Bhutia, the next member could make it at 5:40 am, the famous mountaineer, Yappa Sherpa of Nepal reached the peak for a record eighteenth time. Thus, the diehard Sherpa was instrumental in breaking his own world record.
The well deserved success of K.G. Bhutia was immediately followed by Ram Singh of Jammu & Kashmir. He proudly displayed the Indian tri colour and the flag of J&K Police exactly at 5:40 am. The summit was full of colourful prayer flags and many other things left behind by other mountaineers.
The next turn was that of two women climbers from Sikkim - Phulmaya Tamang and Yangdi Sherpa. With their sincerity and determination, they set foot on the highest point of the world at 6:30 am. While doing so they became the first two women to accomplish the feat from anywhere in the North Eastern Region.
Phulmaya Tamang was lucky after a gap of five years, having failed at a substantial height as a member of HMI 2003 Expedition. Recounting their experience and feelings, later, they stated “It was unbelievable. We felt as if we were in the sky. Everything else was down below. We closed our eyes on reaching the top. We thanked God and offered prayers (Mt. Everest is considered Chomolongma or the Mother Goddess of the Earth by the Sherpas).Given a choice, we are ready to climb again.”
The next five members namely, Ashish K. Singh of Uttarakhand, Nima Wangchuk Sherpa of Sikkim, N. Suraj Singh of Manipur, Yaduram Sharma of Siliguri and Atul Karwal of Gujarat reached the top between 6:30 and 8.30 am. Relentless hard work and blessings of God enabled Karwal to become the first All India Services officer to achieve the distinction.Similarly, Nima Wangchuk at the age of fifty nine years and seven months became the oldest Indian ever to accomplish the feat. According to him, it was the greatest achievement of his life.He was working very hard for same for forty years.
It was a very busy and lucky day at the Mount Everest. Including ten victorious members of this expedition, altogether twenty seven mountaineers from different countries made it to the summit. Overall, it was a show of fantastic camrederie and performance by the Sikkim expedition .Putting ten climbers on top in one attempt without any accident or casualty was incredible indeed.
After spending half an hour and expressing pleasure and happiness over their remarkable achievements, all the climbers could return to Camp IV at South Col between 14:00 and 15.00 hours. They had to spend the night therein. This night however, was different. In view of their accomplishments, all could get sound sleep.
The next day, the team reached Camp II located at a height of 6,400 metres. Climbing down ,however ,was not easy. Same precautions or sometimes more had to be taken. By 24th May, the team could reach the base camp at 17,500 feet.
On 27th May ,all except three members, departed for Kathmandu. The three members, namely. Dr. D.S. Burfal, P.W. Sherpa and S. Pokhariyal stayed back at the Base Camp for the Everest Marathon organised by Bikrum Pandey, of the Himalayan Expedition Company,Kathmandu. Organised between the Everest Base Camp and Namche Bazar(42 kms),it is the highest marathon venue in the world.
With a sense of pride, the whole team returned to Kathmandu on 31st May. Half of the team departed for New Delhi. Those belonging to Sikkim and nearby states returned to a rousing welcome and reception by the Tourism Department at Rangpo on 5th of June. People from all walks of life in Sikkim appeared overjoyed. It was a resounding success after a gap of 43 years.(Late Sonam Gyatso had climbed the Mt. Everest in 1965).Sri Pawan Chamling, the Chief Minister of Sikkim expressing his extreme happiness, congratulated the expedition members.
The expedition, per se, had some more achievements to their credit apart from putting ten members on the top of the Mount Everest. These were;
-- Nepal Army was assisted in building a helipad at the Everest Base Camp for the emergency evacuations. Same was used a couple of times in their presence.
--In a rare humanitarian gesture, Ashish Singh gave his oxygen cylinder to a Vietnamese climber when the latter had exhausted his own. Thus a precious life was saved during the return journey between the summit and the Camp IV.
--The medical team of the expedition, in the same way, saved the life of Miss Kalpana Das, a single woman climber from Orissa .On 21st May, after scaling the peak she was reported to have developed severe dehydration and abdominal pain. She was kept on observation at the Base Camp for more than twenty eight hours and given all possible care. Ultimately, she recovered upon being evacuated by a helicopter to Kathmandu.
--Last but not the least, thirty nine expeditions from different parts of the world were also given free medical aid..
One hopes that more young men and women from the North-Eastern Region will be inspired by the achievements of the expedition. They may, perhaps be encouraged to take up mountaineering activity more seriously and diligently than before.